On our recent drive into northern Michigan, we made an
overnight stop in Traverse City, which sits at the base of Grand Traverse Bay,
a huge inlet from Lake Michigan that is bisected by the long, narrow Old
Mission Peninsula. We had been looking
forward to touring the area and walking around the compact downtown, but we
awoke to a cold, blustery, and rainy day.
After driving around a bit we decided to run out the rain by continuing
northward.
|
Old Mission Peninsula, Looking Westward from the East Arm of Grand Traverse Bay |
We traveled north on US31 and reached Charlevoix in less
than an hour.
The city sits on an
isthmus between Lake Michigan and small Round Lake, which is sort of an
ante-lake to the much bigger Lake Charlevoix which lies just out of sight to
the east.
We did manage to find the
lakeside neighborhood with the little English hobbit-house-like cottages.
After lunch and a walk around town, we
continued north to the Petoskey area.
Petoskey sits on the southeastern shore of Little Traverse
Bay, a large inlet of Lake Michigan.
The
town is full of neat old buildings in a thriving downtown.
Its growth at the turn of the 20
th
Century was fueled by summer residents coming up north from Chicago and
Detroit.
Nearby is the Chautauqua-like
settlement of Bay View, which I suspect was one of the attractions, along with
the woods, streams, and inland lakes, that drew people like Earnest Hemingway’s
parents to summer in this particular area of northern Michigan.
The summer people first came by lake steamer,
then by train, and now by automobile and airplane.
|
Little Traverse Bay from the Southern Shore near Petoskey, Looking
Northwest out to Lake Michigan |
We stayed a few days in the area and enjoyed the sights and Lake
sounds.
We had some nice dinners, and stopped
for drinks in the bar of the historic Perry Hotel.
I bought a few Petoskey stones, those
polished-smooth, stone-like pieces of ancient coral found on the shore of Lake
Michigan – where better to buy them but in Petoskey?
The area is Hemingway country:
he would occasionally get into Petoskey during
his many summers in the area, and would actually live there for some months
around age 20, although he spent his time primarily just south of town at his
family’s cottage (and later small farm) on Walloon Lake and in the small nearby
town of Horton Bay on neighboring Lake Charlevoix.
|
The Petoskey Marina on Little Traverse Bay |
One day we drove north about an hour to Mackinaw City, where
we boarded a ferry for the short ride to Mackinac Island, which lies just off
Michigan’s Upper Peninsula on the Lake Huron side of the Straits of Mackinac.
From the boat we had great views of the
enormous Mackinac Bridge that connects the lower and upper peninsulas.
Travelers disembark on piers jutting out from
the one small town on the island.
Without
motorized vehicles, horses all around, and well-preserved 19
th
Century (and earlier) buildings, the island evokes a simpler, slower bygone
moment in time.
We spent hours walking
about, on yet another day of record-setting mid-September cold.
|
Mackinac Bridge, with a Cargo Ship in the Distance, Looking Westward on a Calm Day |
One particular highlight was our walking tour
of the Grand Hotel, a vibrant scene of by-gone elegance
decorated with lots of bright reds and greens.
Understated
it is not. The famous front porch affords great views of the surrounding grounds and the fraying pool area, and in the distance, Lake Huron and the Bridge crossing the Straight.
|
The Grand Hotel on Mackinac Island |
|
View of the Straits and the Bridge from the Grand Hotel Porch |
In town I confess that we did stop in a fudge shop or
two.
We missed visiting Fort Mackinac,
as time constraints, cold, and drizzle conspired against us.
We shivered in our light jackets waiting for
the return ferry; I think we later heard that it was about 20 degrees below
average for that day of the year.
|
The Main Street on Mackinac Island |
|
An Island Hotel and Waiting Taxi |
We drove back to
Petoskey for one more night, then headed south the next day for home. On our first day back at the southern end of
Lake Michigan, the weather cleared and rose 15 degrees back to average. On our next drive Up North, we’re hoping for a
taste of that “global warming” we’re still waiting for around these parts.
R Balsamo
The entire series is here.
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